Jaime Shirazi Games Modular SlimeVR Trackers
This case was designed to avoid the need for ordering custom PCBs and to seperate the electronics from the enclosure. It was created for Bambu Lab A1 printers printing basic PLA with the standard 0.4 nozzle (the one that is included). It only takes an hour and 20 to print an entire tracker. I only made top covers for the base 5 lower leg set, but you can make more using the blender file. They're also only for distinguishing the tracker assignments, they have no functional difference, so you can just use incorrect labels if you want anyways. The included shells also only work with 2.5cm straps and 5cm straps.
Since the case is PCB-less, it only supports a specific configuration.
| Part | Required? | Quantity | Where I sourced them | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ICM-45686 + QMC6309 | Yes | 1 per. | SlimeVR | Be VERY CAREFUL if you order from elsewhere! It's very easy to order boards that call themselves ICM-45686, but aren't likely to work. You'd also have to modify the design to fit your IMU, which might not actually be possible if the IMU is wide enough (without modifying the entire 3D print to fit). |
| Wemos D1 Mini | Yes | 1 per. | AliExpress (D1 Mini V4.0.0) | Not sure if other boards will be the same dimensions. |
| USB-C TP4056 | Yes | 1 per. | AliExpress (18650 Type-C) Amazon | Both listed fit. I think this part is widely standardised. |
| Diodes | Sorta | 2 per. | AliExpress (HER107) | You could do it without it, but the case already factors them in, so you might as well. Refer to the official DIY docs for where to find alternative diodes if this link isn't the cheapest for you. |
| Resistor | Sorta | 1 per. | Amazon | I actually used the 220k ohms ones, the docs say to use 180 but you can use 220 if you configure it in the DIY firmware flasher. Can't confirm whether 220 still reports back accurately for battery levels. |
| 804040 Battery | Yes | 1 per. | AliExpress | I can't speak to the quality of the ones I bought, I don't know enough about different battery qualities. |
| JST Female | Sorta | 1 per. | Amazon | It's not required but I would really strongly recommend it for ease of replacement and safety. Make sure that it matches the size of the JST connectors on your battery, there are many different sizes. |
| On/Off Switch | Yes | 1 per. | Amazon | There are likely tonnes of other switches that are identical, just adjust the bottom part in the provided blender file until it fits. |
| Multistrand wire | Yes | n.a. | AliExpress (28AWG 5m) | 5 meters was far more than I actually needed. I don't know if the wire is any good, but it worked. |
| Single-strand wire | No | n.a. | Jaycar | Pretty sure I got it from Jaycar, it was a while ago. I personally found single-strand wire easier to work with for the ground wires since I needed to fit 2 into the ICM-45686. It is far less durable though, so if you choose to use it, be careful. I don't know if you can stuff 2 of the multistrand wires into the ICM-45686 ground. |
| Heat Shrink Tubing | No | 3 per. | Amazon | Used only the 1.0*45mm part, cut to fit, so you might get away with using less than 3 full 45mm tubes. Used from the TP4056 B+ to the resistor, TP4056 OUT+ to the resistor, and resistor to A0 on the D1. |
| M3 Heat Insert | Yes | 1 per. | Amazon | Make sure you have an M3 tip for your soldering iron that fits. I specifically needed a Weller ET tip, I sourced from CNC Kitchen. |
| M3 Flat Head Screws | Yes | 1 per. | Amazon | I used the 6mm screws specifically. |
| Straps | Yes | 1 per. | AliExpress (50-850mm) | Make sure they fit! You can modify it the shell to support sides other than 2.5cm and 5cm if necessary by using the source blender files. The gap will only fit straps with a peak thickness of about 0.3mm, everything else will be difficult to force in. I only included a link to one 5cm strap, and that strap is known to fit well. The other ones I used were all far too thick and I had to really force them in. |
| Basic PLA | Yes | ~30g per. | Bambu Labs | Only tested with bambu's own basic PLA. |
- Soldering iron and accompanying tools for soldering (mine is the "Weller 70W 230V Digital Soldering Station")
- Something to hold the parts while you're soldering
- Heat gun (Without this, I couldn't figure out how to shrink the heat shrink wrap without getting melted plastic or whatever on my soldering iron)
- Bambu Labs A1 printer
- Blender 5.0
- Bambu Studio
You can figure out the best process for you based on the animated image at the top of the docs, and the components reference in the blender file, but here's some tips. Make sure you toggle the different covers ("top" part) and shell strap sizes (just the "shell back" part) when printing the 3mf file. The supports for the shells are very aggressive, but that was the only way I could get the curves to print properly, so you will probably need tools to help remove them.
There's only 2 parts that need to be adhered this way. "Shell Back" and "Shell Front" have pegs on one side. Put strong glue (I used super glue) in the pegs holes and pegs, press the two halves of the shell together and let it dry. Then, on the other side, put some glue along the exposed edges. Once it's dried, you're done with this part. The frame for the middle that the parts will be mounted onto and the bottom part that the switch will be fed through should also be glued together. There's 3 little protrusions out of the surface of the middle part that should slot cleanly into the bottom part, so fill it with glue and glue them together. I'll call the middle+bottom part the "frame".
2. Stack the diodes on top of each other, attatch the top one to the bottom and mount them into the frame
The way I'd do this is to mount the two on top of each other, aligned so that power travels to the right. Then, take the right stem of the top one and wrap it around the bottom right stem in a full revolution, as close to the diode as possible so you have maximum clearance. I then used enough solder on the joint to fill the circle formed by the twist of the top diode's right stem, and trimmed the top diode's right stem just after the twist (Not the bottom right stem, leave that one in tact). The 3D print was designed so that you can now feed the diodes through the holes, and the slope of the 3D print will naturally push the left sides of the diodes through. Don't use too much force, and you might want to help the stems through by poking them downwards with a screwdriver once they've made it through the first hole.
Like the diodes, this one will also naturally be guided. You have far more room to do this though, so just use the animated image as reference and insert it however is easiest for you. I didn't end up trimming the stems, I used heat shrink tubes to reach all the way to the TP4056 and heat shrink to extend the part that reaches A0 of the D1 mini.
From this point, just adhere to the wiring guide and you should be fine. Be careful about LiPo batteries who's JST male connectors are reversed for some incomprehensible reason, you may need to reverse your JST female wiring to compensate.